When we think of a focal point in a room, we often think of a mantelpiece, interesting decor, or a rare piece of art. But mirrors can also make a wonderful statement in a given space. You can use large mirrors with decorative frames to attract the eye, situating them on the most visually prominent walls or tables.
Have you got a big mirror that you don’t actually use? Why not make it a bedroom decor by turning it into an infinity LED mirror?
Unique design, cute 3D mirrored tunnel light, a fantastic LED light, this LED light decoration adds vitality to the bedside table. It creates a warm atmosphere for your place. size: 8.46 x 8.46 x 1.96 inch.
The kids are most probably the ones to want this DIY project in their bedrooms. But the kids at heart who enjoy science fiction will want it, too!
Though not necessarily inexpensive, this infinity DIY project is sure to impress anyone who sees it. You can even do this idea to the existing mirror in your living room. When the LED lights are turned off, it functions as a regular mirror.
Do you want an infinity one in your home? Who else do you think will love this idea? 🙂
Learn how to make this fun project by reading
You’ll need these materials:
- Hardwood Frame (frame must be heavy)
- Oak Wood
- Two Way Glass
- Colour Changing LED Light Strip
- Sandpaper
- Corner Trim
- Construction Adhesive
- Screws
- Epoxy
- Glass Suction Cups
- Mirror Adhesive
- Bracket Gun for Mirrors
- Spray Paint (optional)
And these tools:
- Measuring Tape
- Drill
Steps in making your DIY infinity LED mirror:
This is the antique hardwood frame that my buddy got for free! I would definitely recommend hardwood for the frame, as we will be adding on quite a few components and two HEAVY sheets of glass to get the desired reflective effect. Also, make sure that you plan out the entire build before starting.
This is the LED used in this project which you can buy here. This kit comes with a power adapter, remote, IR sensor, and 16.4 feet of LED strip w/ adhesive backing for around $30. The LEDs can be trimmed every 1.5 inches or 3 inches depending on which kit you get.
I sanded the inside lip of the frame here in order to remove any old paint. I repainted it later, but you’ll want a nice smooth surface to adhere to the LED strip.
From here, I measured the interior dimensions of the frame to determine the length of LED strip I would need.
This step can be tricky. You’ll need to account for the thickness of the front pane of glass, which will be “two-way” glass. You can purchase this glass from any local glass company, but it can be pricey. This front sheet of glass at 4 feet by 2 1/2 feet cost me around 90 dollars! You can also use a two-way film, but that may separate over time. The reflective side of this glass should face the REAR of the frame.
After you get the glass, lay it on the front lip of the mirror. From here, place the LED strip around the edge. You’ll want your rear mirror to be as close to flush with the LED strip as humanly possible. This will allow the reflection to be more uniform toward the end of the build.
I found that buying some corner trim from Home Depot allowed me to build a sturdy support rail with the correct offset. Also, make sure you use construction adhesive (PL375 is what I used) and also screw the rails into the frame from the rear. It’s important to note that you will need to countersink the screws into the rail, so your rear mirror is not resting on the screw heads at the end of construction.
More planning is ahead here. Using lengths of oak, I again glued and screwed them on the side of the frame. The reason for this step is to have an offset from the back of the frame and the wall after hanging. It also makes sense to attach your hangers to the oak rails instead of the original frame.
You can also see more planning here with regard to cutting a channel in the back of the frame for the end of the LED strip. Additionally (not pictured), you can drill a hole through the original frame to run your IR sensor to the front of the mirror. Otherwise, you’ll have to have an ugly little wire hanging off the side of your mirror to have the remote work.
Here’s something I learned the hard way: the adhesive on the back of these strips is good, but not great, and the strip kept separating from the frame. Since we’re going to be enclosing them, it made sense to reinforce this adhesive. I used a 2-part epoxy that I mixed in the nozzle and ran a thin bead along the edge of the LED strip to make sure it didn’t detach again.
Test your lights before installing it.
Install the rear mirror.
Having a friend who works for a glass company was INCREDIBLY helpful here. He had the big suction cups, mirror adhesive, and a fancy staple gun that fires brackets to support the rear mirror.
Do NOT put any adhesive or silicone on the inside lip of the support rail before you put this rear mirror in! It will detract from the reflective illusion we’re going after here. Instead, place the mirror in the rail and use adhesive on the back lip for support.
With the remote, you’ll be able to set flashing effects, fade colours, and increase or decrease the brightness of the LEDs.
I hope you enjoyed learning about how to build one of these mirrors; I definitely enjoyed making it!
