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There’s nothing worse than trying to get large, heavy or awkward things through a standard shed door. These sliding barn doors will certainly help with access issues.
Sliding barn doors are perfect for storage sheds. They can even make your shed look like a purpose-built barn that fits right in your backyard. You can also design your own sliding barn door to fit your function and aesthetic needs.
What’s really great about this barn door setup is that that hardware is made from skateboard wheels. Yes, ordinary, off-the-shelf, skate board wheels which are way cheaper than store-bought sliding door hardware. It’s very easy to build too, and only requires basic tools.
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- Skateboard Wheels and Bearings
- Galvanized Steel Rails
- long 1×1 Angle Iron
- 2 pieces 4’ long 1-1/2” x 1/8” Flat Stock Steel
- Nuts, Bolts and Washers
- Extra pieces of Wood
- Jig Saw
- Drill Press (you can also use a Hand Drill if your hands are strong and steady enough)
- Carpenter’s Level
- Tape Measure
- Carpenter’s Level
Cut the flat stock steel into half to make four 24 inches of strips. Then bend them into U shapes using a 1 inch steel rod clamped on the table. See picture below. Grab both ends of the steel and pull upwards. The flat stock will bend relatively easy.
Use a hammer to bend the part near the pipe even more since you will need a tight curve creating about only 1-1/4 inches space between the two sides of the flat steel.
Put a skateboard wheel in between to make sure the space provided allows the wheel to move. Also mark the steel where the axles will be.
Cut a small piece of 1-1/4″ thick wood and place it in between the steel to serve as support while you drill pilot holes on the mark that you made. Then replace your drill bit with a 5/16″ to drill final holes for mounting the axle.
There’s no exact measurement for drilling the holes on the steel. As long as the wheel can rotate properly without touching the bent part of the steel, it would be fine. Place washers in between the sides of the steel and the wheel so that the two would not come in contact when you screw down the bolt. You may have to make some trial and error with different sizes of washers to determine the right one – consider the thickness of your door.
Also drill two wholes on each end of the flat steel. Location of these holes would depend on the door that you are using, but make sure that they would be placed in a solid area of your door.
This is what the galvanized steel rail looks like. The length of your railing would depend on the width of your door. If for example your door has a 6′ width/opening, then you would need 12′ of this – double the size.
Mount the rail on the surface using 3″ lag bolts, steel washers and 11/16th nuts.
In this photo, you’ll see that and angle iron is placed on top of the rail.
To properly determine the location of the rail, place any kind of 1/2 inch thick spacer on the floor of your door opening. Set your door on the spacer and mark the top edge of your door on the surface where you will be mounting the rail. Then measure another 1/2″ to mark where the edge of the railing will be. Use a carpenter’s level to draw a straight line along the surface. It should be equal to the length of your railing.
To attach the door, temporarily clamp it at the opening of the door or have someone hold it in place while you slip two hanger/rollers in place. Mark the holes from the end of the flat steel on your door surface. Drill the holes on the door and then screw together with the hangers/rollers using nuts and bolts. Slide the door to make sure there aren’t any issues with installation. Take note that the end lag bolt that holds the rail serves as your stopper.
Lastly, to keep the door vertical and to prevent it from swaying during strong winds, install an angle iron at the floor as shown in the picture.
Thank you dewey302 for this tutorial!